The ecu mapping has 2 maps in it, and also traction control available in each map. You would need to add the map switch, to access the 2nd map and traction control.
 

The WHITE MAP (which is the default map the ecu comes to you in), is specifically designed for a completely stock bike (stock exhaust and reeds in the intake tract ).  We call it white, because it would be the white map lit up on the map switch, if used.
 

The white map is also designed so you can take the reeds out of the intake tract for a nice power and reliability gain, but leave the exhaust completely stock. You could also change the exhaust and leave the reeds in.
 

The white map for the stock bike turns off the emissions so they can be removed.
 

The white map gives the bike the fuel it needs, so it runs cooler, stronger and NO MORE FLAMEOUTS or STALLING.
 

You get the added ignition timing you need, which is key in reducing flameouts and stalling.  Adding fuel alone won't cure the stalling or give the power increase .
 

You can see the white map does make more power and revs out much further ( we raise the rpm limiter ) than the stock ecu.  And it really makes more power with the reeds out of the intake tract (See dyno chart).
 

Then you can switch the GREEN MAP, which is designed to be used with our exhaust end cap or free flowing muffler, and the reeds out of the intake tract. (And our intake tube in the intake tract for best results).
 

The green map is the same as our full power map, if you purchased our standard race ecu mapping, instead of this. See the red line on the dyno graph.  This is the green map, our end cap and intake tube (The power bundle). So it's the best of all worlds. This ECU has the maps to cover ALL
configurations.
 

Get this ecu mapping and the map switch (sold separately) and be covered
 

Then turn on traction control in either map and really control your power output.