The 2020-22 KTM 350 - Husky 350 Bike Build
A guide to building a great 2020-22 KTM 350 EXCF / XCFW or Husqvarna FE / FE-S. Instead of just re-selling the same old things everyone else sells, these are products that fix the specific issues these bikes have. When you compare them to anything else, for sound, power, protection and rideability, nothing can compare for even close to these prices.
Please note, that the 2020,21 and 22 bikes are the same. The XCFW and FE offroad models, have the same power robbing issues that the street versions do. They just have a slightly more open exhaust and a traction control / map switch. The map switch only changes ignition timing. It still needs fuel, and our fuel programmer still works perfect on the offroad models.
If you’re like us (and most others who recently spent a lot on a new KTM or Husky) you probably thought your new bike was just going to run perfectly all the time with no problems...Boy did we get suckered!
Based on our experience, here’s what you’re most likely finding:
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The bike feels really plugged up due to the intake and exhaust restrictions.
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Your bike runs lean in fuel.
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Your bike and exhaust are getting excessively hot when riding.
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The throttle is less responsive than you expected.
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The bike like to flame out and stall.
If this sounds about right, then it’s not just your imagination.
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And if you just keep riding your bike hard with all the stock parts… you may cause yourself some expensive problems like:
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Damaging expensive or hard to replace parts.
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Injuring yourself because your motorcycle stalls at the worst times, or just isn’t as responsive as it needs to be in certain situations.
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Overheating, breaking parts, and getting stranded in the middle of nowhere.
So the whole existence of this site… is to help you fix all the annoying problems you just inherited, at the most cost effective prices possible so you can be in love with your new bike (instead of frustrated or disappointed).
Everything we do is tested and verified on the dyno, which is the only way to really know how well a product performs.
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So now let’s take a look at how plugged up the new 2020 KTM/Husky's really are, compared to the horsepower gains you’ll get when compared to the bikes with our kits installed.
*For testing, the rear tire was replaced with a street tire, and was ran with 100% wide open throttle.
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The red line above shows the power and torque numbers from a stock 2020 350 EXC-F at wide open throttle in 4th gear. It’s making about 43.7 horsepower stock.
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The blue line is how much power you can get out of the bike with our kits. Which is about 55 horsepower!
That’s a HUGE 11-hp gain considering the size and weight of these newer bikes. Just looking at these power curves above should get your blood pumping, when you imagine how strong and healthy your motor is going to pull.
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So now that you can see what the dyno chart confirms, let’s cover a question that many riders ask when buying products from this site.
What do I have to do, to get this kind of power, and how much? This power is courtesy of our "power bundle" with the fuel programmer , and is on sale at the moment for $699.95. On sale from a normal $775. You read that right. Other places want to charge you more than that, just for an un needed ecu. Others will try to get about $2000 out of you, for what we give for $699.95
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That might be more power than I want. And I'm on a budget. Can I just piece things together as I go along ? If so, what are the things that need to be done in steps.
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What are other things that need to be fixed with these bikes? I hear they have fuel pump / filter problems and the wheels need to be balanced for over 50 mph. Do you have a fix for that? What other problems do they have?
These are intelligent questions. Lets answer the power / budget question first. Then we will get into the full power bundle. Then break down the bundles individual parts, and then get into the other issues and fixes.
1. If you are on a budget, start with the 3 main parts that give you the biggest gain for the buck.
As of March 1st, 2021, something big came along, which totally changed the way you may want to look at improving your bike and adding power. Using this oxygen sensor eliminator, or lambda sensor eliminator, lets you disconnect the 02 (oxygen) sensor from the ecu. The one we have designed, although maybe not as pretty as other peoples, is the most effective one on the market.
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Disconnecting the 02 sensor, just keeps the bike from being in the Closed loop mode. This is where the sensor is feeding info back to the ecu, so the ecu can do it's darndest to keep the air fuel ratio around 14.7 :1. The closed loop mode is activated between idle and 6500 RPM on these bikes.
If your bike is stock, or if you want to use just and exhaust end cap, you can get more fuel to it with just this. Then it will start easier, stall much less and run cooler and stronger from idle to half throttle.
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It's great if you're on a budget, and will let you open up the exhaust without issue. It won't add any fuel to the higher rpm's though, so you wouldn't be able to take the reeds out of the intake just doing the 02 sensor eliminator.
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One issue, some people have though, when undoing the 02 sensor, is an engine code that flashes. It doesn't happen to everyone, and if it does, it will eventually go away and doesn't cause problems. If it happens, you just shut you bike up until it stops and then start again and it's gone. It may happen sporatically as well. But it's not a concern.
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Even though most people get the "power bundle" we have, and just get all the power and fix all the problems and be done with it, don't rule out just starting with the 3 biggest players, in adding power and rideablity.
Exhaust Power End Cap
The stock exhaust is so restrictive, on all of these bikes, that all that heat and pressure can't get out of the engine. This causes stalling, that really really restrictive feel and running real hot. This is the biggest reason that your fan is always coming on.
So just opening the exhaust up, with our Power end cap with spark arrestor, is the first big gain.Available in satin silver or black
The 02 sensor delete and bung plug 02 sensor block off for the pipe, if you want to take the sensor out of the pipe. This will get it the fuel it needs throughout the RPM range. It will run cooler and stall much less. Throttle response much improved. Wheelies are now normal, if desired :)
The better straight shot fuel rail, to replace the stock rail (pictured here in black). This will help with response, starting and stalling, or what most call "flameouts ". You'll still get them, even with the exhaust and more fuel, so this will help keep that under control.
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So for less than $225, you can make a HUGE change to the performance of your bike.
If you ever decide you want more power, you just keep adding the rest of the parts of the power bundle. You aren't going backwards or spending money on things you'll just use once. The next big things after these, are the fuel programmer and power intake tube, just so you can budget.
2. Get the complete Power Bundle all at once
This kit has all you need, to get the big power. Normally the price is $774.95, but right now they are on sale for only $699.95.
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Or…
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3. Buy the individual components
This method let’s you save up while you build your bike a few parts at a time, and learn about all the performance improving mods you can add to your bike over time.
Just keep in mind, when you start modifying things, you may need other components for them to work optimally. So if you plan to RIDE your bike right away, rather than just add parts in the garage as a fun project… then we highly suggest the bundle kits.
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So the next few kits below are our most premium bundle kits we recommend because they’re what we use on our own bikes. They contain every single component we make for the Ultimate Bike Build, and they complement each other perfectly.
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*We understand some people only want to add small things like fuel filters, especially if you live in certain parts of the world where fuel quality is an issue. We made those smaller options available by themselves, and you can find those further down the page.
Power Bundle with Fuel Programmer
If you’re ready to invest a little more in your bike, so you can get it to perform the way you expected it to when you bought it, this Power bundle + fuel programmer kit will get you there the fastest!
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Installing this kit will absolutely transform your bike, and leave you wondering how you ever rode your bike without it. Here’s a quick peek at what’s in the kit, but the rest of the page will go in more detail on each individual component.
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If you already have an aftermarket exhaust, and you want to save a few bucks, you can pick up the Power Bundle with No End Cap Below. And in case you’re wondering, the programmer works great with any aftermarket exhaust just as well as it does with our End Cap.
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Alright, now the next few kits are what we would still consider part of our premium bundle kits for the Ultimate Bike Build because they go perfectly with the first kit above. Read on below to see if you want to add them to your cart before checking out.
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The Clutch Weights
Clutch Weights have become a favorite for riders because they add significant rotational mass to your engine, which makes for less flame outs and better bottom end traction.
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The image on the left is the clutch in stock form. And on the right is one of our cutch weights bolted on the outside of the stock clutch assembly.
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Think it’s too good to be true? To see a video of a 2020 500 EXC-F riding up a steep hill, using the 9 oz. clutch weight (without stalling and at very low RPM’s) check out the video here.
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We shaved down the size to work with your stock clutch cover, but it performs much better than not using a clutch weight at all. So if you’re on a budget, we’ve got you covered.
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In-Tank Fuel Filter
There are 2 fuel filters inside your gas tank. One really is a strainer ,which attaches to the bottom of the pump itself, to keep junk from entering the pump. The other filter, which is one that causes all the problems, is the one that goes between the pump and the regulator. This is mainly because it has a cheap plastic shell, and the high pressure of 50 - 60 psi, can split the filter at any time.
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When the shell splits, the fuel pressure drops, and the bike struggles to run well. Also, the pump just spins at as high of an rpm as it can, to try to make any fuel pressure, and this is one of the main causes of the pumps failing.
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So it's obvious, why you'd use our in tank billet filter, with lifelong stainless steel screen assembly. One it will never fail, and two, you can take apart and clean the screen, any time you feel the performance starting to fall off. We even have rebuild kits if needed. It's a lifelong filter.
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You can see our filter above, versus the stock plastic filter. You can also see our stainless steel filter against the stock paper filter. The filtering area is about the same. The stock filter, filters down to 40 microns, and ours filters slightly smaller particles of 35 microns. And ours is cleanable
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You can get just the filter above, or couple it up, with the new fuel pump below, at a bundle deal price, which will be shown after the pump info
What do I have to do, to get this kind of power, and how much? This power is courtesy of our "power bundle" with the fuel programmer , and is on sale at the moment for $699.95. On sale from a normal $775. You read that right. Other places want to charge you more than that, just for an un needed ecu. Others will try to get about $2000 out of you, for what we give for $699.95​
That might be more power than I want. And I'm on a budget. Can I just piece things together as I go along ? If so, what are the things that need to be done in steps.
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What are other things that need to be fixed with these bikes? I hear they have fuel pump / filter problems and the wheels need to be balanced for over 50 mph. Do you have a fix for that? What other problems do they have?
These are intelligent questions. Lets answer the power / budget question first. Then we will get into the full power bundle. Then break down the bundles individual parts, and then get into the other issues and fixes.
What do I to do, to get this kind of power, and how much? This power is courtesy of our "power bundle" with the fuel programmer , and is on sale at the moment for $699.95. On sale from a normal $775. You read that right. Other places want to charge you more than that, just for an un needed ecu. Others will try to get about $2000 out of you, for what we give for $699.95​
That might be more power than I want. And I'm on a budget. Can I just piece things together as I go along ? If so, what are the things that need to be done in steps.
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What are other things that need to be fixed with these bikes? I hear they have fuel pump / filter problems and the wheels need to be balanced for over 50 mph. Do you have a fix for that? What other problems do they have?
These are intelligent questions. Lets answer the power / budget question first. Then we will get into the full power bundle. Then break down the bundles individual parts, and then get into the other issues and fixes.
The "In-Tank Fuel Filter / Fuel Pump" Bundle
You can get the In-Tank Fuel Filter and the the Fuel Pump separately, or together in our bundle.
You can pick it up below for only $129.95
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Now that we’ve covered everything inside the fuel tank, let’s go over the fuel system outside the bike.
Fuel Line Bundle
Next is this fuel bundle kit we offer, and explain each of the parts and why they can help you.
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First is the High Flow 90-Degree Fuel Fitting we make. It's important because the stock 90 degree fitting, just can't keep up with fuel flow, when needed. If the stock 90 is causing a 350 FE model to lean out at only 9,000 rpms, you can bet it's holding this thing back at it's 13,000 rpm top end. It only starts to back up after about 3 seconds of being held wide open.
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Second thing in line is the Large Area Quick Disconnect Fuel Filter you see. It's much more free flowing than the stock part, and also has a 20 micron screen in it thats 6 times larger than the stock filter, so it won't get the dreaded "clog and bog" out on the trail.
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Last is our now famous Fuel Rail. It gives you a straight shot of fuel to the injector, instead of a restricted flow of fuel, which helps everything from starting, to response, to get up and and go, to lowering stalling and flameouts.
You can pick it up below for only $129.95 on sale
Fuel Line Bundle
Next is this fuel bundle kit we offer, and explain each of the parts and why they can help you.
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First is the High Flow 90-Degree Fuel Fitting we make. It's important because the stock 90 degree fitting, just can't keep up with fuel flow, when needed. If the stock 90 is causing a 350 FE model to lean out at only 9,000 rpms, you can bet it's holding this thing back at it's 13,000 rpm top end. It only starts to back up after about 3 seconds of being held wide open.
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Second thing in line is the Large Area Quick Disconnect Fuel Filter you see. It's much more free flowing than the stock part, and also has a 20 micron screen in it thats 6 times larger than the stock filter, so it won't get the dreaded "clog and bog" out on the trail.
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Last is our now famous Fuel Rail. It gives you a straight shot of fuel to the injector, instead of a restricted flow of fuel, which helps everything from starting, to response, to get up and and go, to lowering stalling and flameouts.
You can pick it up below for only $129.95 on sale
Fuel Line Bundle
Next is this fuel bundle kit we offer, and explain each of the parts and why they can help you.
​First is the High Flow 90-Degree Fuel Fitting we make. It's important because the stock 90 degree fitting, just can't keep up with fuel flow, when needed. If the stock 90 is causing a 350 FE model to lean out at only 9,000 rpms, you can bet it's holding this thing back at it's 13,000 rpm top end. It only starts to back up after about 3 seconds of being held wide open.​
Second thing in line is the Large Area Quick Disconnect Fuel Filter you see. It's much more free flowing than the stock part, and also has a 20 micron screen in it thats 6 times larger than the stock filter, so it won't get the dreaded "clog and bog" out on the trail.
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Last is our now famous Fuel Rail. It gives you a straight shot of fuel to the injector, instead of a restricted flow of fuel, which helps everything from starting, to response, to get up and and go, to lowering stalling and flameouts.
You can pick it up below for only $129.95 on sale
This Concludes OUR KTM / Husky 350 EXCF/XCFW/FE/FE-S Bike Build!
If you were to install every bundle we covered above, you’d be riding what we've found to be the best setup. We hope you’re as happy with all of these parts installed on your bike as we are!
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Now, if you’re looking for a little more info on the individual components… and also a more affordable way to build your bike a few parts at a time, you can see our Individual Components and smaller Bundle Packages below.
Individual Components / Small Bundle Kits
Here’s the BIGGEST question many new customer’s ask us…
"What is the first thing I should do to my bike? I just bought it, it's stock, and I don't really want to void the warranty."
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Actually nothing we have for sale, will void your warranty. Nowadays the standard warranty is only 7 days anyhow, but you're fine anyhow.
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Like was stated at the top of this page, the biggest complaints are that the bike "just feels plugged up", "flames out and or stalls at all the wrong times", and " it seems like it just runs so hot".
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Also, people want to take the emissions off their bike, as they think that's a big power robber.
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On the 2020-22 bikes, they don't have the emissions like the older bikes did. They don't have an air injection valve on the cylinder head, which was the cause of the backfires, so you don't have to worry about that part.
There is the solenoid valve, which is located on the top of the crankcase, but this just sucks fumes from the gas tank. So the only thing to really do, to disable this, is to pull the vent tube, that goes from the gas cap, to this Y fitting, that you see below. It's located on the brake side of the frame, tucked behind the radiator. This will let the fuel system flow free, and not give you idling issues on the trail. Then just cap off the plastic Y fitting and all emissions are disabled. Done
To reiterate, at this point, with these 3 mods, you may just stop right here. It's a good increase in power, reliability and ride-ability. And if you want more, you'll still use these parts
Your next big gains, the big ones for mid to top end power, are 2 things. The Intake tube, which means getting the restrictive "reeds" out of the intake tract, and replacing them with our intake tube, and then using the fuel programmer we've designed, to get enough fuel to the engine.
You'll read about them both below, now. All you need to know, is that when you get the reeds out of the intake tract, power making air finally starts to get into the engine. This creates a big 3-4 gain from 6-10,000 rpms, granted you can add the right amount of fuel to go with the air.
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And this is where the fuel programmer comes into play. If you are going to open up the exhaust flow and intake air flow on these 2020 - 2022 bikes, you HAVE to use our specially designed fuel programmer, to get enough fuel to the engine, at the right amounts and in the right RPM areas. And we have already figured out the base fuel program and final settings for you. So no guessing.
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past these 2 things, the rest of the parts are nice additions to help in protection, fuel delivery for response and ease of ridealibily, or to make sure you don't starve for fuel. The GRUNT exhaust manifold helps with response and acceleration from idle to mid throttle.
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Now you understand a bit more what your shopping for, depending on your needs
So the thing about fixing the running problems one by one, is that you can't really do that. You can try, but fixing one will accentuate another.
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At the very minimum, you'll have to do 2 things. One is replace the exhaust end cap, and the other is use the 02 (oxygen ) sensor delete. And if you do these 2 things, then go ahead and do the fuel rail at the same time.
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These are the 3 things listed to do at the top of this page, but to recap, here is why you'd do them.
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1. The exhaust end cap is so plugged up, that the pressure just struggles to get out. A 500 cc bike makes A LOT of pressure, and if you back it all up, 2 things happen. One, a lot of heat gets created and two, the backed up pressure causes the bike to stall at lower throttle openings, when the throttle is cracked.
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Getting rid of the stock end cap, even on the XCFW and FE bikes, that aren't AS bad as the FE-S and EXCF, will get rid of the extremely hot running of the bike and a lot of the stalling. So the end cap is a MUST DO
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2. When the exhaust is flowing free'r though, the bike will want some extra fuel. And the most cost effective way to do this, if your on a budget, is to just add the 02 sensor delete. This will richen up the bike from idle to 6000 rpm or so, and help a ton with power and response where you ride most.
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3. Because the straight shot fuel rail helps so much with just getting rid of flameouts and adding a bit to response, for such a cheap price, it's just a great thing to add right now.
The "Fuel-Ratio Programmer"
The Most Cost-Effective Way To Get Optimum Fueling is by using our Fuel Ratio Programmer. (This part is included in the Power Bundle + Programmer kit above)
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This is our version of a piggyback programmer for the 2020-22 350 EXCF/XCFW/FE/FE-S. These are made by a company that makes them for many people, so the design may look similar to others.
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BUT - that's where the similarities stop.
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All of the programmers have 6 zones you can play with as the end user, but that just gives you an ability to only slightly fine tune things.
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What separates our fuel programmer from the others is all the hard work and time that it takes to get the baseline numbers in place.
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We spent a lot of time on the dyno and in real-world riding situations, to come up with great baseline numbers for various situations and bike modifications.
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And we're the only ones who have the power and fuel numbers to back up our claims of being the best with these programmers. So they will work for any stage you’re at with your bike build.
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Pick one up below, with full detailed instructions for only $229.95 on sale
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The "Power End Cap"
Now that we have the right fuel going to the bike… let’s talk about opening up your exhaust using our Power End Caps. (This part is included in the Power Bundle + Programmer kit above)
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Everyone thinks they need to spend $400+ on a brand new aftermarket exhaust pipe, but the truth is your money is better spent elsewhere.
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By using our Power End Cap you can start getting additional power out of the bike, and at the same time, you can protect the engine from overheating - at less than half the price of an aftermarket pipe.
What a Stock Exhaust Pipe Looks Like Inside...
Shown below is a 2019 muffler and end caps, but the 2020-22 stuff is almost identical
This is a stock end cap. The muffler is new for 2017-22, and even more restricted than the 12-16 mufflers.
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These stock pipes are plugged up at the intake and exit side of the outlet tube. This results in a huge loss of power, and causes significant pressure and heat build up in the engine.
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Restricting the exhaust on 500's this much is actually dangerous so you're definitely going to want to install our Power End Cap to alleviate this issue.
What our "Power End Cap" looks like inside...
Again, below shows the 2017-19 cap, but the 2020-22 is almost identical
Our Power End Cap is highly free flowing compared to the stock end cap, and makes the stock muffler work great - while still being nice and quiet.
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The other great thing is your exhaust will no longer burn your stock turn signals as there's less heat build up.
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It comes with a spark arrestor built in, and an optional quiet insert (separate). And even with the quiet insert installed, you'll still be making the same power as an aftermarket slip on exhaust.
If you want to get one by itself, they're available in silver and black below for only $149.95, On sale
The "Power Intake Tube"
These newer bikes actually have the reed cage, and reeds from the 2 strokes installed in the intake tract when you get it from the factory. Yes, you heard that right.
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In an effort to quiet the bike down from intake noise, they put reeds between the air filter and throttle body.
The Stock Intake
Not only are these a huge restriction in air flow, and a significant power reducer… but they are also a danger if they break.
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It's in your best interest to remove the reeds, and replace it with our Power Intake Tube which is a very easy install. (This part is included in the Power Bundle + Programmer kit above)
The Power Intake Tube
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Lots of testing went into the precise length, shape, and diameter of our custom intake tubes, resulting in the ultimate throttle response, and mid-range to top-end power.
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Installing our tube is an instant 3 - 4 horsepower gain from 6,000 rpm to 10,000 rpm's, and also provides stronger and snappier acceleration.
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It's really a no brainer when it comes to uncorking the first part of your bike’s breathing system. To pick on up by itself, you can get it below for only $49.95, on sale
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The "Grunt Exhaust Manifold"
For solid gains in throttle response and pulling power from right off of idle, and through the mid range, you're going to want to add our world-renowned GRUNT EXHAUST MANIFOLD. (This part is included in the Power Bundle + Programmer kit above)
Our Grunt is the manifold on the left, stock is on the right.
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The smaller and better shaped inner diameter is what gives the bike the increased response and pulling power. And the O-Rings on the outside create a tight seal between the head pipe and manifold, to avoid sucking air at the head pipe joint.
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You can buy the Grunt Exhaust Manifold below for only $89.95, when on sale
The "Big Bottom" Kit
Most people just opt to get the Big Bottom Kit pictured below. It's the bundle pack of the Power Intake Tube and the Grunt Exhaust Manifold. (This part is included in the Power Bundle + Programmer kit above)
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You save money when you buy them together, and it’s a good option when you're on a budget.
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You can get the Big Bottom Kit below for only $139.95 when on sale
Now we'll go over some really trick mods you can think about adding, for that extra bit of performance and functionality your high performance bike deserves. Read on below...
Fixing the Fuel Delivery System
Our High-Flow Fuel Rail is probably our #1 seller overall because it's so affordable, and quickly changes the way your bike moves fuel from the tank to the fuel injector. (This part is included in the Power Bundle + Programmer kit above)
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The picture on the left, shows my fingers on the stock fuel rail. The fuel comes into the injector at more than a 90 degree angle, has to turn and go from a large chamber into the small hole of the injector. This doesn't work too well for strong fuel flow.
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Problems that result from this set up are increased instant acceleration, decreased flameouts, stalling and easier starting.
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Our fuel rail, which you see in the picture on the right, gives as straight of a fuel pathway as possible. This is a small part, with big benefits.
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You can get the High-Flow Fuel Rail below for only $39.95, on sale
90-Degree Tank Fittings
The next piece you'll need to improve your fuel system's flow, is replacing the stock 90-degree fuel fitting under the gas tank with our better flowing 90-Degree High Flow Fuel Tank Fitting. (This part is included in the Power Bundle + Programmer kit above)
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It may seem like just another small part, but the stock one just doesn't flow enough for high speed running and the bike's fuel ratio still leans out at this crucial intersection.
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It’s also worth mentioning that this part will still fit your oversize tank if you decide to install one later. You can get the 90-Degree High Flow Fuel Tank Fitting below for only $34.95, on sale
Large Area Fuel FIlter
Next up is our Large Area Fuel Filter. (This part is included in the Power Bundle + Programmer kit above)
Not only does it replace one side of your quick disconnect, to save room, but it also has a filter capacity of 6 times larger than the stock filter.
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Add the LARGE AREA FUEL FILTER to your fuel rail, and 90 degree fitting purchase for the ultimate fuel delivery system possible for only $39.95, on sale
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Fuel Filter and Fuel Pump (Individual Components)
These are the same fuel filter and pump parts mentioned in the bundle kits above, as well as the replacement parts to rebuild them if ever needed.
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