AS of 7-25-14 we are completely out of the Honda business and will have nothing for sale anymore but this page will stay up to help answer questions for you.
WE bought the first bike that came into Arizona. Then we took it toFMF so they could design the pipe.Then we worked with EJK to get the fuel programmer right. Then we figured out the airbox mods. Then we figured out it worked best with a 13 tooth front sprocket. As of about a year and a half now and nothing has changed as far as this being the hot set up for these bikes. If I listed all the "thank you for the extra performance" emails on here it would take up the whole page. That's a good thing.
One thing that has changed though, is options to your muffler choice. It was that you would get the Q4 if you wanted to be quieter than the Powercore4 muffler and the PC4 if you wanted more power upon acceleration that the Q4. Now, we have this quiet insert for the PC4 which installs in 5 minutes and actually makes the PC4 a bit quieter than the Q4. So for $40, you can go from extra power to extra quiet any time you'd like. Getting the kit with the PC4 and this insert seems to be the smartest way to go
As of 11/23, there is another set up we have been using that is working very well
Many times, stage one kits are out of stock because one or both of the exhaust parts is being waited on. As we were waiting on headers, we decided to just try the muffler, programmer and air box mods, along with the 13 tooth front sprocket. It worked fantastic. A big increase in bottom end and acceleration, along with an increase in top were the result. The aftermarket head pipe is what adds the bigger increase in mid-top end power and it's cool because that can always be added later if you feel you want more mid-top pull.
If you want to save some money though, and bottom end and acceleration are your main desires, then by all means start with getting the programmer and muffler you desire and then do the sir box mods shown below. The programmer settings are the same for the stock or aftermarket header, so this isn't an issue.
The Q4 is an awesome muffler but it seems the PC4, along with the optional quiet insert, is better spent money. The standard PC4 with spark arrestor will make more bottom and give better pull than the Q4 and then if you feel the PC4 needs to be toned down for your tastes, then install the quiet insert and you can tone it down. You can have it all this way.
On to the GOOD STUFF.
There is a lot of hype about the new CRF250L. Mainly because it's new, it's affordable, it's racy looking, it's street legal and let's face it, at the end of the day. it's a Honda.
If you just want to cruise the streets with your lady and not go over 65 mph, it is ok stock. However, when you want something more and who doesn't want more, that's where we come in. We don't strive to make average dual sport bikes. We are out to give you all you need to design your Best Dual Sport Bike. That being said, let's face the facts about this bike.
Fact one. Off the showroom floor, the bike is a slow, heavy weak suck. The bike weighs 312 lbs and has 18 hp. A KTM 350 EXC, by comparison, weighs about 240 lbs and has 45 hp with a little help. So, you get the idea.
Fact two. Oour stage 1 power kit gives you 3-6 more hp everywhere and knocks ten pounds of high placed weight off the bike. This radically changes the bike into a super fun scoot, that is a 1000 times better on the street and 500 times better in the dirt. Let's talk about this power kit first, and then we'll get into the rest of the bike.
Our bike, at this point, has had it's first review by Dirt Bike Magazine. You can see their online article here:
Soon, it's coming out in Motorcyclist magazine. Sometime around August. Word has it, that they loved the Stage 1 kit and other bike mods.
The bike at this point, has had it's power increased by 6 hp over stock and we've knocked off 20 lbs at the same time. The power kit, is our stage 1 power kit, shown here.
It consists of a FMF exhaust system, along with our exclusive free ceramic coated MegaBomb headpipe, instructions for modifying the airbox and air fliter, a pre-programmed plug and ride fuel controller which we designed the base map for maximum acceleration and power, while still keeping mileage in mind,.
You can see the significant difference here, between the stock bike (blue line), just the addition of the exhaust system (purple line) and the kit as a whole, with the air box mods and the right amount of fuel to bring it all together (black line)
Now dyno runs, like this graph shows, are all run under wide open throttle conditions. What the graph doesn't show you is the increase in response, acceleration and pulling power at the lower rpm's and throttle positions.
Here is some feedback or testimonials, if you will, from two of our initial customers about the kits. The first one is from Justin
"Much better now! Lighter and more power. Thanks Dave! Now Honda needs to come out with a 450L."
Above is Justin flying the 250L thanks to his new found power. I'm not even sure I'd do this on a 250L with stock suspension. Impressive.
Here is Neil's feedback. He is from England.
"Hi Dave had a chance to test bike out today. Wow what a difference felt like a totally different machine. Now free reving and effortless acceleration compared with the stuffy winded performance of before. Now i can change up into top gear at almost any rev s and the little motor will pull readily over 80 mph and up to 91 mph ..... Unbelievable .... Before you would have to thrash it in 5th and even then changing up would result in loosing momentum . I guess if you wanted more drive off rd you could raise the size of the rear sprocket by maybe 3 teeth without compromising its on road performance. Saying that it now will lift the front end up in first gear off the throttle and will clutch up in second. In summery ...... To talk about get advice on kit and to order .... Great .... Delivery being able to track parcels .... Great .... Fitting the kit instructions .... Easy .... The difference to the bike .... Amazing .... Price was good too .... Happy customer this end will be recommending your product and your site .... Thanks Dave "
On top of adding the pipe and programmer, you will want to modify the air box cover as such and the stock air filter. We are almost done with our foam filter kit, as a replacement for the stock paper filter.
Here is the mods to the air filter cover. Drill 6 holes in the side here that are 3/4" in diameter and then the three holes on the top are 3/8". Using a step drill makes life much easier when drilling through the plastic. If you are worried about water getting in, you can drill a little higher up.
Go ahead and take the snorkel out of the top of the airbox. Not much air gets to the top of the box because the entrance around the seat area is tight. This is why you need the exposed holes to the air on the side of the box cover.
Now that you have increased air to the filter, you need to get it through the filter. Since as of this writing, there isn't a better air filter for the 250, all you can do is improve on stock. The backfire screen that is attached to the filter is pretty restrictive, so snip off the 4 little plastic rivets and ditch that stoopid screen.
Now the Fuel Programmer, below, is sold separately if needed. Now here is the deal with these programmers. They are all made by the same place. Some people that re-sell them keep the EJK nameplate on the front, as seen here and some places have their own custom nameplates installed. The real difference between the units is, the pre-programmed settings that they come with. Many have generic settings, so it's up to you to figure out the programming to get the right air/fuel mixture.
Or, you can get one from us, where we have already figured out the correct setting for this pipe and airbox mod combination. This way, you don't have to think or get expensive air/fuel ratio meters and weld O2 sensor bungs in your pipe to install an O2 sensor and see where your air/fuel ratio is at. We have done all that for you. If you get your fuel unit from us, it will have the BDSD smiley sticker on the back and you will know all you have to do is clip the wires in place and you're set.
To install the Programmer, the efi programmer just sits on top of the rear fender, under the seat. Then you connect the black ground wire from the unit to the battery ground and clip the two wires (shown below) in to the stock injector clip and the injector. About a 10 minute job.
Unclipping the wire clip from the stock injector and then clipping the programmers wires into these stock clips is all you have to do to hook up the programmer. All except secure its ground wire somewhere. It takes all of 15 minutes. Just remove the seat, side panels and take the 3 gas tank bolts off to lift the tank up high enough to get to the injector clip here on the top of the throttle body.
Go ahead now and unplug the O2 sensor from the wiring harness. The sensor is at the exhaust port on the left hand side and the clip to unplug is on the backside of the from frame rail. You can ride the same section of trail with the O2 sensor connected and disconnected and I think you'll agree the bike pulls harder with it disconnected.
You don't have to disconnect the exhaust air valve, as shown above, but I would as it will aid in controlling popping upon decelleration sometimes. Remove the two tubes going from the valve you see at the upper right. The tubes run to the silver cap on top of the valve cover here, that has the rubber cap over it, and to the airbox. You'll need a cap (5/8" dia or about 15mm) for the silver cap and one for the airbox. Leave the valve hooked up though and the wires running to it, so the ecu still thinks its there. Doing this seems to make it more responsive right off idle
OK. These are the different kits and there prices as of 4-2-13.
Above is the:
Stage 1 kit with the Megabomb header and powercore 4 muffler.
This kit has the strongest acceleration, because of the muffler choice and because of the fact that the fuel programmer adds the needed fuel to the bike at the lower throttle openings to get it up and going upon acceleration.
Stage 1 kit with the Megabomb header and Q4 muffler.
The Q4 doesn't accelerate as hard from 3000 RPM to 6500 RPM but this is the combo that made the power you see in the dyno chart above. It is quieter than the PC4 under accelerating and cruising. Not by a huge amount, but back to back, you can hear a difference while riding.
To bring all of the new power together, as a much more usable package, you really want to replace your stock 14 tooth sprocket with a 13 tooth one. The bike will accelerate much better and sixth gear can finally be pulled down the highway, allowing you to run into the 90 MPH range on the speedo. Now keep in mind, that since the stock speedo is electronic, the bike is really traveling somewhere between 83-86 mph when the speedo says 91. The bike is going about 40 when the speedo says 42-43.